See Travel Blog

Morning.

Didn’t get a great night’s sleep last night.  Was convinced I heard voices and music coming from the hotel hallway at 3am.  No one else heard it, so I’m not so sure.

This morning we leave Hanoi to head to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon).  The bus taking us to the airport had to battle through heavy traffic (likely the usual morning rush hour, however there was definitely much more of a military presence on the streets.  Were they just there to guide traffic?  It felt like something was happening.

The airport experience was very smooth.  There was no queue for security, no delays, and upon arrival in Ho Chi Minh City, no passport control to wait at (the joys of a domestic flight – our only one of this trip).

Immediately, you could feel the temperature was much hotter here and far more humid.  We’re 2 hours closer to the equator now, and the difference in climate is very evident.

Speaking of weather, it started to rain just as we loaded our cases to the minivan taking us to our hotel in the city centre.  By the time we arrived, it was full blown torrential.  Thankfully the hotel staff were quick to emerge with umbrellas.  It looked like the bus driver wasn’t for getting out to help!

After offloading cases and checking into the hotel, we were now unburdened by what has been (that’s a cheeky reference to the US election which was unfolding at the same time).  Funny, we’ve been largely without internet on this trip – using hotel / restaurant WiFi where opportunity presented itself.  World War 3 could be kicking off and we’d be totally oblivious.

We walked through the Tao Dan park towards the War Remnants museum which had been recommended to us by Phil Mitchell.  I recollected from photographs there were tanks and planes in the car park, and found a location which fitted the bill.  After booking tickets to go in, I soon discovered this wasn’t the attraction I thought it was – instead it was Independence Palace.

As it turns out, this building belonged to General Nguyen Van Thieu, the French approved Governor of Saigon.  He lived here between 1967 and 1975, when he fled the country as Ho Chi Minh’s forces seized control.  

It was then that tanks crashed through the iron gates of the palace, signalling the fall of Saigon and the end of the Vietnam war.  Following this, the palace was renamed Reunification Hall and has been left largely as it was, and open to the public.

Honestly there’s not an awful lot of interesting things to see, it’s just a lot of very fancy rooms – the most intriguing being the Governor’s office.  Even still the whole thing only cost a few quid, so still good value for money.

In 1962, the then Governor’s Palace was bombed in an attempt to assassinate President Ngô Đình Diệm. The building that we see today was the one built in its place.

I’ve got to say that’s a major step down – architecturally speaking!  

The much anticipated War Remnants museum was only a few blocks away.  There’s a spectacular array of US army regalia in the forecourt.  These include, a CH-47 chinook helicopter, an F-5A fighter jet, A-1 & A-37 bomber planes, an M48 tank and much more. 

Inside, exhibitions chronicle the horrendous stories of the Vietnam War and (quite understandably from a Vietnamese perspective.  A lot of Americans haven’t taken well to this, and have made their feelings clear on Trip Advisor.

“Very one-sided, and you could tell the Communist Party owned,created, and operated this!!!  Do not waste your time!!!! I’m sure though if you do you will look great on the Party’s Cameras!!!” – Eric F, Minneapolis

“As you can expect, this museum in communist controlled Vietnam has a very negative slant against America. They have one of every type of US weapon, tank, planes, helicopter, from every branch of our services on display. The exhibits are all pro Vietnam and all against the US participation. One exhibit actually states: “The World Supports Vietnam in its Resistance To U.S. Aggression 1954-1975.” While being offended by the propaganda there, you have to keep in mind that the museum is communist controlled.” – Sheree T, South Carolina 

“Slanted history. But the winners get to write history so why should I not understand. If love old propaganda great place” – Bill P, Florida

“This is a propaganda mess in the disguise of a museum by the Vietnamese government. Sole purpose is to shock and influence American and European tourists (I didn’t see many Vietnamese here) with disturbing photos. The quotes are out of context, the photos of questionable sources, (photos could document any of the combatants actions but only single out the Americans ), the “photo journalist” quoted have an anti American bias, and there is a collection of military junk at the entrance. Fake museum.” – Cindy S, USA

Oh they’re a touchy bunch, those Americans!

A short walk away, and looking to put the Vietnam War behind us (quite literally, in fact), a Christmas display in front of the Diamond Plaza shopping centre proved a welcome distraction.

Arriving into the city centre, and the Opera House is the first significant landmark we encounter.  This design is atypical of French Colonial architecture.  I’m not sure why the French plumped for yellow, but that seems to be the rage here (perhaps they’re Coldplay fans).

During the conflict period in Saigon, this was used as a government building by the South Vietnamese (known as the Viet Cong, or VC for short) who were propped up by the Americans.  It was restored to its original purpose after the war ended.

Straddling the front door are statues of two females holding the roof on their heads.  These draw inspiration from the Caryatids in Athens.  The whole building is modelled on the Petit Palais in Paris.

Rather cruelly, these ladies have been covered up by two gaudy pink banners.  

My first impressions of Ho Chi Minh City are that the city is more futuristic – there are dozens and dozens of modern skyscrapers, but there also seems to be more deprivation.  There’s less of a police presence here, and the people seem to be more compliant.  The roads are a bit less crazy, the footpaths are a bit more walkable, and the grid style road layout makes navigation far more straightforward.  In many ways it feels like much more of a European city. 

Next we head to Japan town, which has been described to me as a corner of Japan in Vietnam.  As someone itching to go to Japan, if this is a hint of what to expect, then honestly I’d be better not wasting my money.  The area is dirty, and untidy and has lots of provocatively & scantily dressed ladies standing street side in groups trying to lure male passers by into massage shops.  The whole thing just felt a bit seedy.  Is this 

Ho Chi Minh City’s red light district?  I wouldn’t be surprised.

Suffering slightly with the humidity, we stop for drinks and snacks at a nice looking restaurant behind the opera house.

By the time we have finished and settle our bill, darkness has pretty much engulfed the city.  The streets take on a new charm with old lamps lighting our way.

Not far from the Opera building is the City Hall.  It’s native name is ‘Trụ sở Hội đồng Nhân dân và Ủy ban Nhân dân Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh’, so please forgive me for sticking to the English.

Completed in 1908 in the Beaux Arts style, this feels like the central beating heart of the city.  Like the Opera building, it’s yellow and modelled on somewhere in Paris – this the Hotel de Ville. 

Of course, the city is now named after Ho Chi Minh (Uncle Ho) who led Vietnam to reconciliation and reunification (posthumously in the 1970s).  To recognise his success, the city was renamed from Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City.  A statue of the famous leader now stands in front of the town Hall.

In front of him now are an impressive array of bright lights and modern skyscrapers.  I wonder what he’d make of it all?  It all feels very Times Square, New York, and one of the buildings even says Times Square on top, just to drive home those comparisons.

Uncle Ho isn’t moving an inch, but the same can’t be said for the human statues on Lê Lợi Boulevard who are all over the place.  One even ups sticks and leaves after we walk past.  I’d be asking for a refund if I’d gave him anything!

Flashes of light now fill the sky – not the bright lights of Times Square, but rather a lightning storm brewing in the air.  By the time we’ve made it back to our hotel (not very far), it’s raining heavily once again.

We later brave the elements to head across the road for dinner, where we talked with an Australian lady on a month long tour of South East Asia.  We talk Neighbours, travel, and more before heading back for bed.  

It was a busy day, but a great introduction to Vietnam’s second city, and looking forward to what tomorrow has in store.