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Oosh that 6am alarm doesn’t get any easier 🥱.  Today we are saying tạm biệt to Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam and សួស្តី (suostei) to Phnom Penh and Cambodia (joking of course… we never made it past Cảm ơn in Vietnam and I took one look at the Cambodian alphabet and gave up).

Before all of that though, it’s down to the basement in the hotel for breakfast.  This morning I opted for toast and Laughing Cow cheese triangles, sausages, a boiled egg and some salami.  For some reason, this morning the hotel restaurant is pumping out Christmas tunes.  I’m not sure why they’ve gone for the 9th November as the date to start, but why not?

Our tour guide Kevin and his driver from the last couple of days collect us, and take us and our luggage to a tour company a few blocks away.  It’s a sad farewell to both, but particularly Kevin who was such an excellent companion and knowledgable guide.  I can’t recall a better guide from any previous travels.

We’re travelling on the Giant Ibis bus – a journey scheduled to take 8 hours or so (including a few stops).  A man with a bumbag round his chest is running around getting passengers to fill in cards to accompany the visa (Much more on him later.

Earlier in the trip, there was a little concern on our side about obtaining a visa for Cambodia.  The advice given was that the bus company will sort everything out.  Ultimately this was proven correct, there was very little for us to worry about, so those passport photos in Hanoi were a bit pointless.

Once everything has been loaded, we’re ready to depart.  We will miss Saigon.  

The first stop was around an hour and a half in.  It was at a pretty big standard motorway service station.  We all took the opportunity for a toilet, then joined the queue for coffees. 

The service was very slow – a theme which would recur as the day went on.  Having paid and whilst waiting for the coffees to be made, the guy from the bus told us to quickly get back on the bus.  Another man from the bus gave up and cancelled his order, demanding a refund, but Dad stood his ground.  We were told the bus would leave without us (but given they had our passports, I’m not sure of the practicalities of that and it may have been a hollow threat.

I headed back to the bus with mum, leaving dad still at the coffee stall.  Eventually he emerged with two coffees in hand, and on the receiving end of a death glare from the guy on the bus.  I call bus guy Lesley (Lesley Chow from the Hangover movies if anyone has seen them).  He is strict, impatient and barks orders in broken English with a shouty tone, but is also incredibly camp.  He’s very funny to observe but I wouldn’t want to be in the receiving end of his temper.  

Lesley’s wrath was fully unleashed, when he discovered one passenger hadn’t handed in their passport.  I’m gonna have PA-PORT, PA-PORT ringing through my ears all night.  There was also a tour guide on the bus (not sure why because he only gave one useful fact on the whole journey), but the tour guide came over the tannoy to say Lesley was stressed and hadn’t had his lunch.  Aw bless!

Stop 2 was at the Cambodian border in Bavet, about 60 km from HCMC where we had come from.  With a strict schedule to observe, Mr Chow had now handed back passports to everyone on the bus.  We would have to then queue up and go through passport control to leave Vietnam, and then again on the Cambodian side. 

Lunch was in a service station in no mans land between the two border stations.   That too had its problems.  Again we were tight pressed for time, so had been warned to go in and place order in the only restaurant, then go to the toilet and pay later.  It’s a pretty crap Asian diner truth be told.  

Looking at the menu pictures above the counter, I opt for a burger, but am told it’s not on the menu.  I’m confused.  Ham and cheese sandwich it is then, I guess.

The food just seems to come out when it’s ready.  Of the three of us in our family, Dad had finished his by the time mum’s lunch came out, then mine after she had finished.  Unfortunately the lack of order in the restaurant meant there were some who missed out.  It was the same Australian guy who had cancelled his coffee order earlier.  I guess sometimes it’s just not your day!

Anyway I was more distracted by the welcome return of an old buddy.  The humble plastic drinking straw!

At the Cambodian passport control, there were about 5 queues and none of these were particularly fast moving either.  It’s like the people here just aren’t in a hurry to do anything!  We finally make it through after what seems like an eternity in the queue.

At the other side of the border, rural Cambodia seems like a bit of a dive.  The same can’t be said for Phnom Penh though. Yes it’s no Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh, and we kind of knew it wouldn’t be, but there’s a lot of newish buildings and the place looks far tidier.  It’s almost like all the money is being spent on upkeep in the capital.  

As we drive through the city towards the bus stop, Lesley tells us that today is a national holiday in Cambodia.  Really?  It looks like there are a few stages half built, and there are a lot of flags up, but maybe this is normal?  

I check Google and it tells me that today (November 9th) is indeed Cambodian Independence Day, but it looks like it’s being celebrated on Monday in lieu, as it falls over the weekend.  We’re only here today and tomorrow, so probably won’t get to see much of the celebrations.

Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia, has a population of 2.5 million and is known as ‘the charming city’.  It’s situated where the Tonlé Sap and Mekong Rivers meet.  It has a very turbulent history, but we’ll hear more about that tomorrow.

Our hotel during this time is the Onra Hotel.  This is quite comfortably the most luxurious hotel we’ve stayed in on this trip.  My room has a giant panoramic window which opens up to reveal the city skyline.  There is also a rooftop bar and pool.

With the sun quickly falling in the sky, we head out to get our bearings.  A 23 minute walk takes us to the Independence Monument, which given today’s significance, is being guarded by four uniformed officers.  In the middle, a flame burns.  

This was built in 1962 and celebrates Cambodia’s independence from France.  It is 37 metres tall and shaped like a lotus flower like other traditional temples in the country.  

Beyond that, the statue of Preah Bat Samdech Preah Norodom Sihanouk stands watching out under a golden pagoda.  The surrounding park is filled with kids and adults alike exercising – badminton / football / a man playing tennis with himself / runners / kids on roller blades and scooters can all be seen.

The whole place is awash with dynamism and activity.  This is the something we’re familiar with back in Northern Ireland.  It’s clear this is a very healthy nation.

Neak Banh Teuk Park opens up into Wat Botum Park on the left hand side.  This is named after Wat Botum Temple beside it.  In the centre of the park is the Cambodia-Vietnam friendship monument.  

Both of these neighbouring countries have had a difficult relationship through history.  Now it looks like relations are improved, but there’s still some distain when you ask people.

This monument was actually built in 1979, during Vietnamese occupation.  It shows a Cambodian and Vietnamese soldier shielding a Cambodian woman and her baby.

The monument is often the subject of protests, and in 2007, there was an unsuccessful attempt to blow it up.  There are often discussions in government about replacing statues such as these with more appropriate ones – but it remains in place for now.

Beyond this statue, and in front of a fountain, an exercise class is in full flow.  

Mum joins in from the back.

We take time out from the sightseeing for drinks in a bar at the side of Wat Botum Park.  Here, music is playing at double speed.  Is that to get around music copyright / licensing laws?  Or has someone changed the YouTube settings to speed it up and forgot to change it back.  

Having mastered the Vietnamese exchange rate (not even remotely), it’s back to scratch in Cambodia.  The currency here is the Cambodian Reil, but US Dollars are also widely accepted, and both currencies are available at most ATMs.  The exchange rate is about 5200 KHR to 1 Pound Sterling.  On their notes, the 1s look like 9.  That’s not at all confusing!

Suitably refreshed, we head on from Wat Botum, and aim to find the Royal Palace.  A wrong turn sees us walk the long way round the back, and there’s a stream of people heading down to the river where it looks like something is happening.

Soon we hear an almighty bang and the sky lights up.  No, not a terrorist attack thank God, but a fireworks display to celebrate the Independence Day.  We had no idea this was happening, so a lovely bit of serendipity.

The golden royal palace looks resplendent in artificial lighting, and a large portrait of the king dominates the front facade.

This palace was first completed in 1870, but most of what we see was added in the following century.  

The spire is 59 metres tall, and below that, a pristine balcony looks prepared for the king to make an appearance.  Sadly we didn’t see him while we were there.

With so many people (many of which being young families) around, there’s a lovely buzz around the place.  Screams emit from a line of kids watching with every firework going off – they weren’t crying, so looked like screams of joy. 

After about half an hour, the fireworks stop, and the crowd slowly disperses.  Yet to eat, we look for a restaurant, but in the general busyness, go with the first one we see – Grand River Sports bar.

With last night’s Ireland rugby game replaying on the screens above the bar, we turn and face the other way.  If they had have beaten the All Blacks, it might have been a different story.

I go for a red curry with chicken.  Again, the food just comes out when it’s ready, so I’ve almost finished by the time dad is served.

After dinner, we call it a night and head back to the hotel.  Just a 3km / 40 minute walk to finish, through some very grotty backstreets.  At one market stall, insects, snakes and fermented eggs are on the menu.  If that was the alternative, I’ve never been happier with a dinner choice!

That’s all for today.  Looking forward to a very different day tomorrow.