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The days are rolling in here in Albania.  After a brilliant day in Tirana yesterday, our original plan for today was to do something a bit further away – Lake Shkodër up in the far north eastern corner of Albania.  However, last night I was scrolling through some TikToks and wasn’t feeling it.

Plan B was to head a shorter distance due south (about 90 minutes) to the city of Berat, which is another one of Albania’s UNESCO World Heritage cities.

We take the opportunity for a slight lie-in, then leave our apartment around 10:30am with a packed lunch in toe.  

Like Gjirokastër, Berat centres around a mountaintop castle, with the newer city at its feet, divided by the Osumi river.  It was the Ottoman period of rule, beginning in the 15th century which really shaped the city, and artisan crafts like metal & leatherwork were the most prominent industries.  

We perch ourselves down on a low wall on the approach to the main castle gate to enjoy the picnic lunch.  I’ve opted for a tuna, mayo and onion roll.  We’re not the only ones enjoying a good feed – the bugs are feasting away on the crumbs at our feet!

A gently sloping road leads up into the castle, and from there I notice quite a lot of people up on top of one of the castle ramparts.  It’s a difficult climb, not aided by what feels like the hottest weather in the time we’ve been in Albania – even still it’s probably only low 30s.

Berat Castle is the oldest one in Albania which has people living inside it, walking through the streets inside feels at time like walking on people’s driveways.  For that reason, cars seem to be able to drive right through, and this ruins the experience slightly.  For those brave enough to give it a go, the slippery polished stones lining the ground (and steep inclines) seem to be causing major problems for any cars with rear wheel drive.  I tell you, if I lived there, my clutch would be gone in half a day!

Like Gjirokastër, there are a smattering of souvenir shops, and most sell the same stuff – hats, T-shirts, postcards, magnets, rugs and ceramic ornaments.  It doesn’t take much to get me to go inside, but the cool A/C makes this particularly desirable today.

Dad and I venture forward from the main entrance in anticipation, but like yesterday Mum has decided to stay around the shops area.  We’re not entirely sure what is further on, but I’m sure there’ll be a good view or something.

Alas that did indeed turn out to be the case – we soon reach a clearing with some semi ruinous buildings and a view over the valley below.  On the side of the hill is the Byzantine style Church of the Holy Trinity dating back to the 14th century, with reddish brick and an octagonal tower.  

It’s here that we meet two Albanian ladies (who I have mistakenly pre-determined to be French).  We converse briefly and learn that one of the ladies has been living in Germany for 20+ years but has come back on holiday, and is shocked at just how much the country has changed in her absence.  They are soon joined by their full families, and I am impressed at how a young boy (who can be no more than 14 years old) is able to ask us in perfect English if we’ve been enjoying our time here.  

We return back to the entrance of the castle complex where Mum has found us a nice spot for some cold drinks (which were much, much needed).  It is here that I made the startling realisation that Fanta Exotic here is a completely different colour than Fanta Exotic back home (white, rather than red), and also tastes far sweeter.  So in Albania at least, Fanta Exotic has now dethroned Fanta Orange as my bevvy of choice.

Once we settle up, we head back in the general direction of the car, taking time for a few photos at a cannon by a window.  Fortunately the car is without a parking ticket – which is a particular rarity for us when on holiday!

The newer city is down a steep hill and is split into two pretty neighbourhoods – Mangalemi at the north side of the Osumi River, and Gorica at the south side.  There are two bridges connecting both districts – one a lot more modern than the other.

They call Berat ‘the City of a Thousand Windows’ and it only takes a quick glance to deduce why.  

We walk down the riverside promenade to the older Gorica Bridge, where a few guys are fishing.  In the time we’re there, they don’t seem to catch anything, but I spot a plastic drinking bottle with quite a few catches – we think they’re Red Mullet, and all pretty small in size.  

After this, we opt to return back to Durrës, but I can barely keep my eyes open, and nod off somewhere on the way back.  

We safely return to Durrës, and get a quick shower before going down to the on-site restaurant again for dinner.

Today hasn’t been a particularly full on day, but I’m quite glad of that.  Tomorrow we’ve got another tour booked and we’re gonna have to get up pretty early! 🥱 See you tomorrow!